Posted by: Debra Kolkka | December 3, 2025

Bury St Edmunds and the smallest pub in England

Bury St Edmunds is a cathedral and market town in West Suffolk. I visited my lovely friends in Cambridge in May this year and we spent a day this beautiful town.

The town is best known for Bury St Edmunds Abbey and St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It was built on a grid pattern by Abbot Baldwin around 1080.  In 1214 the barons of England are believed to have met in the abbey church answers sworn to force King John to accept the Charter of Liberties, the document which influenced the creation of Magna Carta.’

Today it is known for brewing (Greene Kimg brewery) and a factory where Silver Spoon sugar is produced. We parked the car not far from a huge chimney sending clouds of steam into the air.

It was a short walk to through the Abbey Gardens to the town centre. The gardens were established in 1831. It was built on the site of the original botanical garden.

 


We came upon an internal garden in front of the ruins of the Abbey of St Edmunds, built in 1020, once the richest and most powerful Benedictine monasteries in England. The abbey’s importance led to its destruction. When Henry VIII closed the abbey in 1539, it was systematically demolished to demonstrate the king’s power and control. Apart from the abbot’s palace, the site was allowed to become a quarry for local building stone.


Most of the church was demolished, leaving the west front without its fine stonework. In the 18th century a number of houses were built within the shell. The remains of the original arches and the octagonal tower give an idea of what the original church would have looked like.



We left the courtyard through an arch into to Angel Hill St.

 


I love the facades of these old buildings.



We stopped at the information centre where an excellent guide gave us tips on what to see. We headed first to the St Edmundsbury Cathedral. It originated in the 11th century, was rebuilt in the 12th and 16th centuries and became a cathedral in 1914.

 

The font was designed in 1870 with decoration added in 1960.


The medieval stained glass ‘Susanna Window, has Flemish glass in the lower section and English glass at the top.


We went to The Nutshell, the smallest pub in England.

The claim to be the smallest in England has been disputed, but it is indeed tiny. It measures 4.57 metres x 2.13 metres and can hold 10 – 15 customers at one time. It has been trading since 1867

The decoration inside is interesting and includes the dried body of a dead cat, which was discovered in 1935 during building work. It is said to be 400 years old. In former times the bodies of cats were often placed inside the structure of buildings to bring good luck.

My favourite was the fox wearing sunglasses.

There is much more to keep your eyes busy darting around the room.


We enjoyed a beverage and a friendly chat with the bar attendant and a local who is a regular at the Nutshell. It was a fun visit.

Our next stop was the Cotswold Outdoor shop, one of the places the helpful woman at the information sent us to. She said there is a wooden pillar featuring carvings of Henry VIII and one of his wives. We walked in and could not see anything like this. I walked up a fabulous wooden staircase which turned out to be a replica of the original.

We asked a couple of attendants who knew nothing of the pillar. Finally one of them googled it and discovered it is in the corner window in the front of the shop. Before the Google search it had been suggested that we go back to the information centre to check the location. It is quite likely that it is not Henry VIII but another historical figure. I searched for more information and came up with no reference to Henry.

Anyway, here is the pillar. I think it is impressive regardless of who it is.

Abbeygate Street is lined with interesting shops and cafes.

Corn Exchange Wetherspoons is said to be the most beautiful Wetherspoons pub in England. I can’t comment as I have not been in another one, but it is certainly is impressive. I do like and English pub lunch.


On the way back to the car we spotted a group of pigeons gathering on a roof top, who knows why.


Thank you Anup for a great visit to Bury St Edmunds!

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 20, 2025

I’m still sewing

I have now been sewing for 60 years. My mother made our clothes when we were children, but by the time I was about 12 she became a bit too busy, so I learned to sew myself. I remember Mum taking me to buy fabric and a pattern.

Her idea of teaching me to sew involved opening the pattern and telling me to follow the instructions. She said she would help me if I got stuck. I got stuck on the zip, so she put that in for me. My first dress was made.

I made most of my clothes when I was a teenager and made things for my friends too. A dress would be made on Saturday morning to be worn out that night. I made all of my son’s clothes until he was old enough to want things from the shop like the other boys.

I sewed most of the clothes I sold in the shop I had in the Brisbane Arcade for 20 years. Now I am lucky that my friend Savva lets me use space in his shop to sell the things I make. I have a room full of fabric to work through and I like to make things, so I am still sewing.

Here are some of the things I have made lately. I make clothes that are easy to wear and suit our sub tropical climate. I only work in cotton and linen for summer. I also make tablecloths, napkins, tote bags, cushions and other small things.

 

 

 



I am slowly working through the mountain of fabric I have collected over the years. The mountain doesn’t seem to be decreasing, possibly because I keep finding new pieces. I only make a few things in each fabric, sometimes a one off. New things appear in the shop each day.

Sarva is at 239 Boundary St, West End, Brisbane. (cnr Corbett St) I will be in the shop from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00 – 1.30 until I go back to Italy. Drop in if you are nearby. Savva does excellent made to measure and alterations, another reason to come to see us.

 

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | November 1, 2025

Art in Paris

On my way home from Italy I stayed in Paris for a couple of days. I was there the first day of the Art Deco exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Art Deco is my favourite style era, so after a friend sorted the ticket issue, we went to the exhibition.

The first exhibit was a recreation of some Orient Express train carriages. What fun it would have been to travel in such luxury!


I think this rug would fit perfectly at my house.


As would everything else I liked, especially this chair.


…and all of these lovely things.

 


 




There was a Paul Poiret exhibition on in the same museum. He was a French master couturier during the first 2 decades of the 20th century. He was born in 1879 and died in 1944.






 


Thee were a few items designed by more recent designers in the spirit of Poiret.



Poiret’s fashion house declined when Chanel and other designers came along with more simple clothing…things change.


The Bourse de Commerce was originally used as a place to negotiate the trade of grain and other commodities, and used to provide services to businesses by the Paris chamber of Commerce during the latter part of the 20th century. It is now a modern art museum housing the contemporary art from Francois Pinault’s collection.


There is usually a temporary exhibition in the central room. I am very sorry I missed the water pool earlier this year. The current one was not the reason for my visit.


The building itself is a work of art.

The frieze inside the dome is a historical 19th century painting depicting scenes of international trade and commerce. It has been recently restored.




Don’t miss the 18th century double helix staircase!

Coffee might not be art, but this new coffee destination could  be called art. I came upon Copains Rive Gauche at 68 Rue Saints-Peres and immediately stopped for coffee and a financier.


Coffee and a pastry in Paris is now around €14 in many places. That is quite a bit more than the coffee and sfoglia I have at Bar Italia across the bridge from my apartment in Bagni di Lucca. It is a steal at €2.40 and is every bit as delicious.

Food can be art too. My favourite place to have lunch is Lucien Le Grande in the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne, one of the most beautiful covered passageways in Paris. The luxurious walkway was built in 1823. I recommend a walk through even if you don’t stop for lunch.

Originally a gourmet grocery store, Lucien Le Grande opened in 1880 and 5 generations later it is now an iconic destination in Paris for gourmet food and fine wine. The wine cellar showcases wine from all over the world from over 370 winemakers.


Delicious food in a delightful setting. (More than 1 lunch)

This Dries Van Noten clutch was seen in the window of the shop. It is definitely art.

Rick Owens boots seen through window of the shop might be a bit difficult to wear, but are definitely works of art.


I will finish wth some beautiful public art in the Palais Royale.

There is much to love in Paris.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | October 24, 2025

Shopping and eating in Vicenza

I found Vicenza to be a stylish and interesting city. I discovered a few excellent cafes where I had breakfast and aperitivo.

My first stop was Pasticceria Soraru, the oldest cafe in Vicenza. It stands in the shadow of the monument to Palladio in the Piazza dei Signori. In 1870 Celeste Soraru opened the pasticceria and it still serves great coffee and delicious pastries today. The charming, old fashioned interior drew me, but I sat outside under the portico to enjoy my first coffee of the day. Tables spill out into the piazza as well.

 


Pasticceria Venezia dates from 1964. It is still run by the same family,  but it has had a serious modern makeover recently by the look of it. It is renowned for its cakes made in the tradition of recipes from the Veneto region,

 

The one I liked the most was Pigafetta, almost next door to Pasticceria Venezia, run by 2 lovely older gentlemen. This would be my local if I lived in Vicenza. The pastries all looked delicious and the one I ate certainly was. I liked the old school feeling of the cafe.


I had aperitivo on the edge of the Piazza dei Signori. I forgot to look for the name, but it is on the left top corner facing the clock tower.

Not far away was this excellent looking place for aperitivo or some serious wine tasting…next time.


Ristorante tira tardi was the name of the lovely restaurant they drew me in for dinner.

I forgot to photograph the second course, but it was excellent, as was the service.

The restaurant is in this lovely street, Contrà Daniele Manin, off the Piazza dei Signori.

On my second night I went to Enoteca Veneta Ristorante in Corso Antonio Fogazzaro. The food and service were great. There was a lovely young waiter who had worked in Australia.

 


I was very happy that I went in search of this restaurant because I discovered this gorgeous long street filled with some of the most stylish shops and apartment buildings outside of a capital city in Italy.






The best thing was that there were lots of owners in the shops so i was able to have a nice chat with some genuine locals. In a couple of cases there were some elegant older signore running the shops. I learned that Vicenza is not really in the tourist trail so the shops cater for locals. There are clearly some very well dressed Vicenza residents.

I came upon a small, but well stocked fresh food market on one of my walks.

 


I stayed at Hotel due Mori, and older, elegant hotel a short step away from Piazza dei Signora, a perfect location.

Vicenza is a stunning city. I don’t know why it is not visited by hordes of tourists, because it deserves to be. Having said that, I like it just the way it is. It would make a great base from which to explore nearby, busier towns like Verona, Padova and Venice. It looks to be easy to get in an out of, so driving there should not be difficult. It is a short train ride from Vicenza to lots of interesting towns, leave the car behind and take the easy way.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | October 11, 2025

Vicenza, Palladio overload

I have mostly done day trips on this visit to Bagni di Lucca. I have several wonderful places close by, Lucca, Florence, Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi. I was looking for somewhere to go for an overnight stay. I decided on Vicenza, a town I have not been to…a good reason to go there to explore something new for me.

The trip involved a few train changes along the way. Vicenza is in northeastern Italy in the Veneto region. It is 60 kilometres west of Venice and 200 kilometres east of Milan.

Vicenzo is well known for its Palladian architecture. The town is home to 23 buildings designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, 1508 – 1580. There are another 24 villas in the Veneto area. He was influenced by Roman and Greek architecture and is widely considered  to be one of the most influential individuals in the history of architecture. He was born in nearby Padova.

Vicenza is a thriving modern city in a historic setting. It is the third largest Italian industrial city and one of the wealthiest. Its textile and steel industries employ tens of thousands of people. One fifth of Italy’s gold and jewellery is made in Vicenza.

All this points to a very stylish city. The main piazza surrounded by Palladian buildings is stunning, even with part of it under scaffolding.

The view in the evening when the work vehicles have left is a better representation of the piaza.

The Basilica Palladiana with its clock tower and stunning loggias takes up almost one side of Piazza dei Signori. It was built on an existing 15th century Gothic building. Palladio was commissioned in 1549 to work on the building. He added the marble loggias. The copper lined roof, shaped like an inverted ship’s hull, was inspired by the Palazzo della Ragione in Padova.
Today it is a cultural centre hosting exhibitions and events.


Andrea Palladio stands guard at the end of the building in a small piazza.

Opposite is the Palazzo del Capitaniato, or Loggia Capitanio. It was designed by Palladio in 1565 and built in 1571 – 1572. It is currently used by the town council. It did not appear to be open when I was there.

 

There are 2 columns at one end of Piazza dei Signori. The older one dates from 1464 when Vicenza was controlled by the Venetian Republic. It is topped with the winged lion, the symbol of St Mark and of Venice. The second column dates from 1640 and it topped with a statue of Christ the Redeemer.




The first church I walked into was at the end of the piazza. Chiesa di Santa Maria in Foro. It was begun in 1404.

Chiesa San Lorenzo in Corso Fogazzaro, facing Piazza San Lorenzo, was begun in 1280 in a mix of Gothic and Lombard Romanesque styles.

It looks especially lovely at night.


There are lots of architectural delights in the streets of Vicenza.

 





 

This is one of the main entrances to the historical centre of the town, the way I walked into from the station.


Nearby is the entrance to the Salvi Garden. The garden is quite small, but there were lots of people circling the running track and school children exercising in groups. It is a well used park.


There is a small canal with another 2 Palladian buildings beside it.

 

Lots of water birds were enjoying this tranquil location. An orange duck thought he had found a treat, but decided against it.

I found some fun places to have coffee, aperitivo and dinner. I also found a delightful street lined with elegant shops. I will share those in the next post.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | October 3, 2025

Antique market in Lucca

On the third weekend of each month there is an antique market in Lucca. It spreads through streets and fills piazzas. It seems to grow bigger each time I go. Many treasures are to be found.







There was some entertainment for the browsers.

This visit I found a hand crochet table runner. It will have a new life as trim on some garments I will make. I dare anyone to walk away empty handed!

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | September 22, 2025

Cantucci and Prato

There is nothing I like more than walking through old Italian towns, exploring for treasures in the wonderful streets.

I have been to Prato (near Florence) many times but did not know that the famous biscuits, cantucci, came from there. Cantucci are also known as biscotti. I set out to find the original place where cantucci were made. It was not difficult, it is on one of Prato’s main streets.

Antonio Mattei, creator of the original recipe, opened his biscuit factory in 1858. Since 1904 the Pandolfini has carried on the tradition with the same passion and creativity of its founder.

 


They have branched out a bit and make other biscuits besides cantucci, freshly baked brioche loaf, glacé cherry loaf, Mantovana cake, savoiardi biscuits and more.

I bought some traditional cantucci and some Ernesto’s biscuits, the recipe dedicated to Ernesto Pandolfini.

Prato is a lovely town to visit even if you don’t love cantucci. There are fabulous buildings in the narrow streets, great places to eat and excellent shops. The town is lively and a fun place to wander.






Part of the old wall surrounding Prato still stands.


Here are posts I have written about Prato, with more information on the town, in the past.

A visit to Prato

A short visit to Prato

You will find the cantucci shop in Via Rocasoli 20, Prato.

There is also a shop in Florence, in Via Porta Rossa 76R. In 2018, to celebrate the biscuit factory’s 160th anniversary, the Pandolfini family opened the small museum shop. You can sample the delicious products and see photos and documents from the original business.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | September 15, 2025

Our pile of rocks

Those of you who have followed my blog for a while might be wondering why I have not posted about Casa Debbio and our beautiful garden. That is because we have sold it. A delightful couple, who love the house as much as we did, have taken the reins and are making the garden their own.

This is what we started with. We originally called it “Our Pile of Rocks”. The only thing we could save was the volcanic rock arched doorway.


This is what it became. The house was finished in 2012 and for the next 12 years we built the garden. The whole property was covered in brambles and had a few old trees.

 

 





Apart from the magnificent views from the house, and Sisto’s music playing from below in the afternoon, what I will miss the most is the garden. It was a lot of work. We had help from lots of people.

Our lovely friend Agostino gave us lots of plants for our garden, Alfredo had the terrible job of clearing the brambles, Bardi started the first garden beside the house, Vittorio built the pergola, Rocco helped on several occasions with his digger, Filippo was with us in the garden from almost the beginning and did a great job with help from Ugo. They both built the dry stone walls in front of the house as well as the driveway and lots of other projects.



My favourite tree is this weeping cherry. There are 3, but this one is so beautiful in early spring.

 


It is also lovely when the leaves come.


I loved the wisteria.

I loved the aquilegias, artichokes, tomatoes, roses, fruit trees, lavender, rosemary, daffodils and all of the other fabulous things that grow so well at Casa Debbio.



I loved the experiment with the old bed on one of the terraces. Now it is growing a bedspread of vinca.



I loved it when we had snow occasionally.



I loved our family of bright green lizards.

But most of all I loved my peonies. I was delighted to find that they would grow well in the garden. This was my first one. After a few years it grew about 60 blooms every spring.

 

Many others followed. There were around 100 peony plants growing at last count.


My most popular photo from Casa Debbio was afternoon tea on the terrace in front of the house..


Farewell Casa Debbio. It was a lovely time in my life.

 

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | September 1, 2025

Skara Brae in Orkney

Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement on the Bay of Skaill on the main island in the Orkney archipelago. The site was occupied from roughly 3180BC to around 2500BC. It is Europe’s most complete Neolithic village. Skara Brae gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status as one of the 4 sites making up “The heart of Neolithic Orkney”. It is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids of Giza. It was uncovered in 1850.

We arrived at the site and decided to have breakfast at the excellent information centre at the entrance to the site. We were just in time for a burst of torrential rain. Luckily it finished just as we had finished breakfast.

Our visit began with the small museum at the centre. It was filled with artefacts gathered from the excavation. It also included a true to size replica of one of the stone houses uncovered.



The excavation site is a short walk from the entrance, towards the seashore. It consists of 10 clustered houses made of flagstones. The tiny village is made up of a group of one-roomed circular houses.



Earthen dams provided support for the walls. All houses  had built in stone furniture, beds, cupboards and shelves. There was a primitive sewer system, with a form of toilet and drains with water used to flush waste into a bigger drain and then out to sea.

 




On a warm sunny day the location of the houses must have been idyllic. There would have been plentiful food from the sea, fertile land for farming and the views are glorious. On a freezing, windy, wet winter day, maybe not so great.

It is not known why the site was abandoned. Around 2500BC the climate changed, becoming colder and wetter. One theory is that the people left after a major storm because the inhabitants seem to have left in haste, leaving valuables behind. An unknown number of dwellings would appear to have been lost to sea erosion.

 

The house near Skara Brae is Skaill House, a historic 17th century mansion. It was the home of William Watt, the man who discovered Skara Brae in 1850 when a storm uncovered the site on his doorstep. A visit to the house is included in the admission price for Skara Brae.



Skara Brae was our favourite spot on Orkney. It is easy to imagine people living in these houses, going about their daily lives. It is a pity the stone walls can’t tell us more about the people who built them.

Our little aircraft that took us to Aberdeen was very cute.

An even smaller one was waiting for passengers nearby. These planes skip from island to island.

 

Our Orkney visit was excellent! The folk music festival was wonderful, I would happily go again. Thank you Anup and Poorna for organising the trip.

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Posted by: Debra Kolkka | August 26, 2025

Ancient stones on Orkney

One of the ancients sites in Orkney we visited was the Ring of Brogdar. According to folklore, a band of fearsome giants gathered in a field between the lochs of Stenness and Harry one night and began to dance to the sound of a fiddle. They forgot to watch for the sun rising and as the first rays crept over the horizon they instantly turned to stone. Today they are frozen in place, as the stones of the Ring of Brodgar.







Only a small fraction of the site has been excavated. Maybe in the future more will be uncovered and further understanding of the stones will be revealed.

We didn’t dance all night, so we did not turn to stone. It was a short visit to see the mysterious stones. It is amazing place to be, trying to imagine why and how these stones came to be placed here all those centuries ago. It is wonderful that they still stand and allow themselves to be admired.

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